The first time I got to go back home from college was during Thanksgiving break. The school bus (Williams Transport is probably one of the biggest programs I have to thank CC for) dropped me off at Penn Station around 4, which left me enough time to grab a late lunch/an early dinner at K-town before heading home on the LIRR. I had no hesitation about which of the delectable restaurants on the Korea Way that I would pick.
I chose Gahm Mi Oak.
The reason for this choice is simple: for three months, I went from having great Korean food every day in Busan to having dining hall food. Dining hall food was not yet quite gross for me, but it did mean that by the time November rolled around, I magically started craving for foods I’ve never thought I’d crave for. Bean sprouts, jeotgal (pickled roe), cucumbers, my grandma’s weird smelling leafy thing… but most of all, I was surprised that my body was literally screaming for some kimchi as I looked eagerly out of the bus window. And Gahm Mi Oak has one of the most consistently tasteful kimchi all around K-town.
Kimchi is really just a method of cooking/pickling, so I supposed I should specify what I mean by that: the most generic form of kimchi is the spicy napa cabbage that’s slightly fermented. I really enjoy the sour smelly fermented part of kimchi and can’t get enough of the sourness at home because my grandpa doesn’t like the sourness. There are all different forms of kimchi with all different veggies, but this is the form that pops up in people’s minds first.
Gahm Mi Oak’s specialty is the Seolleongtang. (I recognize that I fail at descriptions, so I’ll just post a link to wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seolleongtang) Seolleongtang is basically milky looking ox bone/meat broth with rice and some noodles. It takes a long time to really brew the heck out of these bones and make it that yellowish-white color, and Gahm Mi Oak doesn’t necessarily have the best version. Although they clear the oil off well, there’s a little less feeling of home-cooked broth than I’d like and their rice and noodles pretty much suck because everything is pre-cooked in mass quantities. They do have a decent amount of meat, which is always a plus.
But my parents spoiled me in terms of the broth itself since they (and my grandparents) do a lot of gomtang out in the backyard, and their sweat and hard work really show through in the delicious product. I much prefer to have Gahm Mi Oak’s Soondae platters, but don’t indulge in it too often because it’s expensive.
But I stepped off that bus and headed to Gahm Mi Oak, simply because their kimchi is great. (Also, it was a cold day and I knew some seolleongtang would keep me warm on the train.) They give it to you in this small pot which I guess is supposed to mimic the huge pots that kimchi is traditionally stored and buried in. They don’t give you just a plate of it, they give you a mountainous load of napa cabbage and radish kimchi. (Seolleongtang is actually supposed to be eaten with the radish kind… but I’m still not quite used to radishes and besides, their cabbage kimchi is awesome so I never bothered.) I scizzored up some of the cabbage kimchi and started stuffing before the seolleongtang even came. As a result, I had two heaps of kimchi all by myself that day.
There’s something in the fermentation process that works in Gahm Mi Oak kimchi that doesn’t in my grandma’s kimchi: there’s an extra crunch, an extra bite, and an extra tang to the kimchi. It’s also a little bit more saucy(?) than most kimchi I’m used to eating. The pinkish-orangey-red water that runs off of the kimchi is more like a syrup here. Delicious spicy drippy syrup specked with hot pepper flakes…. The kimchi that’s generally served because it’s a side and it’s just so ubiquitous to Korean meals becomes one of the main attractions in this store. To further prove their kimchi’s worth, I believe Gahm Mi Oak sells their kimchi (or at least, they used to…) which is akin to a fried chicken joint that sells bucketfuls of their cole slaw.
One of the first things you hear about as you approach Korean foods (or at least, it should be…) is kimchi. We’re trying to globalize other Korean food, but really, kimchi is the face of Korea. (Deliciously pickled and fermented face…) There’s hundreds of ways to make kimchi but the red-sauce-on-cabbage is probably the most known type and therefore the most challenging to be famous for. My personal taste runs towards Gahm Mi Oak’s crunchy, sour, and not-too-salty kimchi, so this is the place I would be recommending to anyone who wanted to learn more about kimchi.
And as it is with (probably) all places in K-town, they will refill your pot of kimchi without questions, even if you’re a short teenage girl eating by herself next to a large suitcase.
—-
If you insisted on a seolleongtang experience but didn’t know how to properly eat it, I guess I should probably explain how here.
There will be a pot of chopped scallions on the table and a pot of salt. Although you’ll need more salt than you think, start with just a spoonful. Stir with your metal spoon, taste, and keep adding like half a spoonful at a time until you reach about the point where you think it could be saltier, but it’s alright. Get a spoonful (or three for me) of the scallions and you’ll find that these bits of green onion cuts through a lot of the oily/heaviness of the deep ox bone broth. If you really wanna go hardcore Korean, there’s a reason why they give you all that radish kimchi. Cut chunks of radish, coat in its own sauce, and place it in your soup, mixing the kimchi sauce with your soup. (Or add the entire plate’s kimchi sauce if you really enjoy kimchi) This adds spice and briny-saltiness to your soup.
Robyn Lee on Serious Eats NY has way better descriptions (and pictures!) than I do. I’m just really obsessed with their kimchi.
—-
Also, Gahm Mi Oak has multiple locations…



친구들아,